The first thing requiring attention in the fall is the leaves. Keep the leaves out of the pond either with netting that covers the pond or by regularly scooping them out with your net. If allowed to remain in the pond, the leaves would rot and release harmful gases all winter.

When the temperature of the pond water drops below 40-45F, the fish and plants will begin their hibernation processes and will not require feeding/fertilization. If feeding were to continue, the fish, metabolisms having been lowered, may not digest properly. The plants, out of their growing season, have no use for fertilizer.

After the plants have turned completely brown, they should be cut back a few inches above the water level and left alone. For lilies, cut off all the brown leaves and stems, and set the pots in the bottom of the pond. Make sure not to cut any leaves that are still yellow, as you will prevent the rootstock from re-absorbing the nutrients. Tropical plants, some of which are: bog lily, canna, papyrus, thalia, snowflake, taro and umbrella palm, need special care. The rootstock should be taken up, rinsed and stripped of all stems and leaves, put into a sealed container of damp (not wet) sand and stored in a cool place. They can also be brought in like houseplants to sit in a container of water in a sunny window.

When the winter progresses to a point where there is a threat of the pond freezing over, you should turn off all pumps and make sure they rest below the freeze line in your area. If the cannot go below the freeze line, disconnect them from their tubing and outlets and bring them inside. Also, at this time, a pond deicer should be put into place to maintain an area for gas exchange between the air and the water below the ice. DO NOT crack the ice manually as the shock waves may harm or kill the fish.

Lastly, the pond should be well marked to prevent accidents at times when snow and ice may bury it.